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Pipe relining

No excavation · Under driveways and paving · Root-proof joints · Heritage and steep blocks

A new pipe inside the old one, without the trench.

A resin-saturated liner is fed into the damaged drain, pressed against the inside wall and cured hard in place. What you end up with is a continuous, jointless pipe inside the original, with no gaps for roots to get back into.

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Ask about relining

Three quick steps. Every enquiry answered within 12 hours. If it's urgent, call.

Thanks. We've got it, and we'll come back to you within 12 hours. If it's urgent, call Luke on 0423 213 079 or Zach on 0402 273 744.
How can we help?
24/7 Emergency
Drain blocked now?
The short answer

Pipe relining repairs a damaged drain from the inside instead of digging it up. A flexible liner soaked in resin is inserted into the existing pipe, inflated so it presses against the pipe wall, and cured until hard, forming a new jointless pipe inside the old one. Because there are no joints, the most common cause of blockages in Sydney drains, tree roots entering at a joint, has nowhere to get in. It suits drains running under driveways, paving, established gardens, mature trees, heritage properties and steep blocks, where excavation would be expensive or destructive.

When relining is the better option

Relining is not automatically the right answer, but in these situations it usually is.

There is one hard limit. Relining needs enough of the original pipe left to form against. If a section has fully collapsed, that part has to be dug up and replaced, though often we can excavate one small section and reline the rest.

How it works

How pipe relining is done

1

Camera the line first

Nothing gets quoted before we have seen the pipe. A camera inspection tells us the diameter, the length, where the junctions and bends are, and how much of the original pipe is intact.

2

Clean the pipe properly

The liner has to bond to the pipe wall, so roots, scale and fat all come out first with high pressure water. If there are roots inside, they are cut back flush.

3

Measure and prepare the liner

The liner is cut to length and saturated with resin. This is done on site and there is a working window before it starts to cure, so it happens in the right order.

4

Install and inflate

The liner goes in through the existing access point and is inflated so it presses firmly against the inside of the old pipe, taking its shape including the bends.

5

Cure it hard

The resin sets to form a rigid pipe within the pipe. Once it has cured, the inflation is removed and what is left is a continuous jointless liner.

6

Reinstate junctions and camera it again

Any branch lines covered by the liner are reopened with a cutter so they drain properly. Then the camera goes back down so you can see the finished result rather than take our word for it.

What pipe relining costs

Relining is priced per job, and honestly it cannot be quoted without a camera first. Anyone giving you a firm relining price over the phone is guessing. The variables:

The comparison that matters is not relining against nothing, it is relining against excavation. Once you add up breaking out a driveway, digging, replacing the pipe, backfilling and then rebuilding the driveway, relining is frequently the cheaper option as well as the less disruptive one. We will price both where both are genuinely possible, and tell you which we would choose.

Where we work

Pipe relining across Sydney's north

Questions

Pipe relining questions

The liner is a structural repair intended as a long-term fix rather than a patch, and manufacturers quote design lives measured in decades. What we will tell you honestly is that the life you get depends on the install being done properly on a properly prepared pipe, which is why the preparation and the final camera check matter as much as the liner itself. We are not going to quote you a specific number of years on this page, because that figure varies by product and by job and you should get it in writing for your job, not off a website.
Slightly, because the liner has a wall thickness and it sits inside the original pipe. In practice it usually improves flow rather than reducing it, because the new surface is smooth and continuous, where the old pipe had rough clay, scale, root growth and joints that caught debris. A smooth smaller pipe commonly carries more than a rough larger one.
Most can, including the earthenware and clay drains under most older Sydney homes, plus PVC, cast iron and concrete. The requirement is that enough of the original pipe is still there for the liner to form against. A completely collapsed section cannot be lined. That is the main exclusion, and a camera tells us before you commit to anything.
For most residential drainage faults, yes, and in some situations it is better because there are no joints to fail. Where full replacement wins is when the pipe has collapsed, when the grade of the pipe is wrong and needs to be relaid at a proper fall, or when the line is in the wrong place for what you are building. We will tell you which situation you are in.
Most residential jobs are a single day, including the cleaning, the install, the cure and the junction reinstatement. Longer runs, multiple sections or commercial work can take longer. Your drains are out of service for part of the day, and we will tell you which part so you can plan around it.
Usually not. The whole point is to work through the existing access points. Occasionally we need one small excavation, either to create an access point where there is not a usable one, or to replace a short collapsed section before lining the rest. If that is the case you will know before we start, not on the day.
It removes the way they were getting in. Roots enter through joints, cracks and gaps, and a cured liner is continuous with none of those along the lined section. The tree keeps growing and the rest of your drainage is unchanged, so if roots have found one fault they may eventually find another elsewhere in the system. Within the relined section, though, there is nothing for them to exploit.
Relining an existing damaged drain on your own property is repair work, not new drainage, so normally no. Where you do need to be careful is if the work involves Sydney Water's assets or a shared line, or if the property has heritage constraints. We will raise it with you if your job touches any of that rather than finding out afterwards.
Yes. Stormwater lines get the same problems, roots and cracked joints and silt build-up, and the same solution applies.

Pipe relining in Sydney: why no-dig usually wins

The traditional fix for a broken drain is to find it, dig it up, replace the pipe and fill the hole back in. It works. It is also the reason so many Sydney homeowners have a rectangle of newer concrete across an otherwise matching driveway.

What relining actually is

A flexible liner, saturated with resin, is drawn or pushed into the damaged pipe through an existing access point. It is then inflated so it presses hard against the inside of the old pipe, taking on its shape including bends and changes of direction. The resin cures until it is rigid. Once the inflation is removed you have a smooth, continuous, jointless pipe sitting inside the original one, using the old pipe as its host.

Because the liner is continuous, it has no joints. In Sydney drainage that is the whole game. The overwhelming majority of blockages we clear are roots entering at a joint or crack in old clay pipe. Remove the joints and you remove the entry point.

Where it matters most around here

On the Upper North Shore it is the trees and the sandstone. The suburbs through Killara, Gordon, Pymble, Wahroonga and St Ives are known for their tree canopy, and mature trees sitting over century-old earthenware drains is the classic root intrusion setup. Add sandstone close to the surface, steep gullied blocks and streets with heritage conservation controls, and excavation goes from inconvenient to seriously expensive. Relining avoids most of that.

In The Hills it is more often the hard surfaces. Larger homes on larger blocks means long drainage runs, frequently under driveways, paved entertaining areas, pool surrounds and established landscaping that cost a great deal to put in and more to put back.

On the Northern Beaches it is access. Steep blocks around Avalon, Bilgola, Whale Beach and Seaforth, houses well above or below the street, narrow side passages and tight sites all make getting an excavator to the fault difficult or impossible. Relining works through the existing access point, so the machine does not need to be at the pipe.

What we will tell you not to reline

We would rather turn down a job than sell you the wrong one. If a section has completely collapsed there is nothing to line against and it has to be dug. If the pipe was laid at the wrong fall so waste sits in it, lining preserves the bad fall and you keep the problem. If a drain is in the way of something you are about to build, replacing it in the right position is the sensible answer. In each of those cases we will say so, and we will show you the footage that led us there.

Call Luke on 0423 213 079 or Zach on 0402 273 744. Every enquiry through the form is answered within 12 hours.

Get relining looked at properly

We camera the line before we quote, because that is the only honest way to price relining. Call, or send the form and you will hear back within 12 hours.

Luke 0423 213 079 Zach 0402 273 744 admin@bmadvanced.com.au
The Hills, North Shore & Northern Beaches, NSW

We'll call you back

Three quick steps. Every enquiry answered within 12 hours. If it's urgent, use the numbers.

Thanks. We've got it, and we'll come back to you within 12 hours. If it's urgent, call Luke on 0423 213 079 or Zach on 0402 273 744.
How can we help?
☎ Call Luke ☎ Call Zach